A cardboard template was made to fit over the strut attach brackets. Then for each wing in turn the lower skins were positioned and the locations for the cutouts marked. The template was then used to trace the outline and a rotary rasp used in the Dremel to cut to the outline. Following a bit ot trial and error the hole was then made to fit snuggly over the brackets and the wings skins positioned ansd clamped into place. The wings were then turned over and the positions of the ribs and spars marked in pencil - just visible in the picture. These markings will allow the glue to be applied in the right places without too much excess. Like the wingtips, the markings were also then transferred to the outside of the skin to allow correct positioning of the attachment staples into the ribs and spars. Next job to glue one!
Monday, 3 December 2012
3rd December 2012 - Preparing the wings for the lower skins
A cardboard template was made to fit over the strut attach brackets. Then for each wing in turn the lower skins were positioned and the locations for the cutouts marked. The template was then used to trace the outline and a rotary rasp used in the Dremel to cut to the outline. Following a bit ot trial and error the hole was then made to fit snuggly over the brackets and the wings skins positioned ansd clamped into place. The wings were then turned over and the positions of the ribs and spars marked in pencil - just visible in the picture. These markings will allow the glue to be applied in the right places without too much excess. Like the wingtips, the markings were also then transferred to the outside of the skin to allow correct positioning of the attachment staples into the ribs and spars. Next job to glue one!
25th November 2012 - Skinning the left lower wingtip
A piece of the 3/32" mahogany ply was cut out to roughly match the shape of the wing tip. This was then clipped to the wing and the position of the ribs and spars marked on the inside of the skin in pencil. Sacrificial strips were cut from scrap ply to enable staples to be used to secure the skin while the glue set which could then be removed without damaging the skin proper. The rib and spar positions marked on the inside of the skin were also transfered to the outside to allow positioning of the staples.
Then a batch of West Systems epoxy was made with the usual 5% by weight of microfibre. This was applied to the wing tip structure and between the pencil marks on the inside of the skin. The skin was then positioned onto the wing structure and fastened into position with staples from the spar outwards. Every clamp I possess was then used to secure the edges of the skin and the glue left to dry overnight.
24th November 2012 - Scarfing part 2
23rd November 2012 - Scarfing the wing skins
If you google scarfing there are all sorts of mechanisms proposed ranging from simple sanding, through routing to sawing. The idea is to create a matching slope on each piece of wood so that the glue area is increased. Typically, the slope is of the order of 12:1, so in the case of the 3/32" plywood used for the wings the gluing area will be increased to 1-1/8". I elected to use my powered plane to cut the scraft angle. First a piece of angle aluminium was fastened to the plane to create the requisite 12:1 slope. Also, a piece of aluminium was screwed to the bench to create a straight edge for the plane to run along. Then, first on a piece of scrap material pushed tight against the straight edge, the plane was run along the width of the board using a cutting depth of 1/32".
Much to my surprise this worked perfectly cutting a neat line along the edge at the requisite angle. Two more passes of the plane cut the full depth of the joint.
The scrap material was then cut to form a run-on and run-off for cutting the actual material. The full sheet of ply was then positioned and the three passes made again - another success!!
This was repeated for the other full sheet of ply and two shorter pieces which together will cover the top surfaces of the wings and the wingtips.
Tuesday, 10 April 2012
10th April 2012 - Fuselage priming complete
Saturday, 31 March 2012
31st March 2012 - To Do list
Today I spent stripping out various internals ready for spraying. I also set about working out a to do list to complete the fuselage (this will still leave the wings to be skinned) as follows:
- Apply second brush coat of EkoFill to fuselage sides
- Mask fuselage internals and spray 2 crosscoats of filler on to fuselage sides
- Apply EkoFill to control surfaces: rudder, two off ailerons, two off flaps, two off elevators, two off horizontal stabilisers
- Make drainholes in control surfaces
- Apply EkoPoly to control surfaces
- Prime and top coat all cowl attach brackets and spacers
- Final fit front fuselage side panels and rivet into place on firewall with cowl attach brackets
- Reprime front fuselage sides with EkoPrime to ensure topcoat colour match
- Reprime front fuselage lower panel with EkoPrime to ensure topcoat colour match
- Cut access hole in combing to allow fuel level sender to be calibrated, make and fit removable cover
- Respay combing and refit
- Fabricate internal and external cover plates over tank filler hole in windscreen, prime and topcoat
- Install tank filler in windscreen and refit windscreen
- Rivet Front windscreen edge strip to firewall and cowl attach brackets
- Rivet lower cowl attach brackets to firewall
- Prime undercarriage legs
- Topcoat complete fuselage and undercarriage with white EkoPoly
- Final weld right door latch
- Fabricate left and right door latch covers
- Fabric cover left and right door internal structure
- Apply EkoFill to door internal skins
- Topcoat doors with white EkoPoly
- Fabricate and install remaining transparencies: Two off door, two off forward fuselage sides, two off rear fuselage sides
- Seal inside of airbox with pigmented resin
- Paint topcoat airbox metalwork
- Rivet together airbox
- Apply second coat of pigmented resin to seal inside of top cowl
- Final fit cowl
- Fill pinholes in cowl and prime
- Topcoat cowl with white EkoPoly
- Install cowl and mask for applying red fineline along fuselage and cowl
- Topcoat spinner backplate with red EkoPoly
- Spray fineline with red EkoPoly
- Apply glass cloth reinforcement to top of leg spats
- Prime leg spats with EkoPrime
- Topcoat leg spats with white EkoPoly
- Drill undercarriage ends to take cotter pins to secure wheel nuts
- Install brakes
- Fabricate brake pipes, fill, bleed, and pressure test brake lines
- Test install wheel spats, fabricate inside support bracket to fit
- Sand and prime wheel spats
- Topcoat wheel Spats with white EkoPoly
- Fabricate engine baffles
- Fabricate engine exhaust system
- Fabricate leg to fuselage intersection fairings
- Fabricate leg to wheel spat intersection fairings
Friday, 30 March 2012
30th March 2012 - Finally some painting progress!
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